It might sound like a cliche, but water is life. Whether it’s for an emergency kit or a camping trip, having a supply of clean water is most important in any survival situation. As a general rule of thumb, you’ll need about one gallon of water per day, per person (and per pet!) in the event of an emergency. It is a good idea to always store at least one week worth of clean water in case of a disaster. Water sources can become disrupted or contaminated for prolonged periods and you’ll need water for both consumption, cooking, and hygiene purposes. Proper water storage is fairly simple if you have good water storage containers and know how to store them appropriately.
First of all, you need a water storage container that meets a number of safety requirements and viability tests. A container cannot be too heavy when full, needs to be durable, portable, puncture resistant, leak proof and meet food safety requirements. You also may or may not need it to be stackable, or to have a pouring spout or a spigot.
It is not recommended to use metal containers for long term water storage. The safest containers to hold water in are polyethylene-based plastics, or plastics #1, #2, and #4. These types are food-grade, BPA free, excellent for long-term storage and do not leach harmful chemicals into the water leaving a “plastic” taste.
The size of the water container you select depends on your needs. For short term storage you can use small containers (2-10L or in other words less than 3 gallons) and made out of soft collapsible plastic. If you plan to store more water for a longer period of time, you should pick a larger container made out of the most durable hard plastic material.
When you are deciding on water storage for camping or offroading trips, you need to select a container that is large enough to carry plenty of water (there might not be a clean water source the entire trip in some cases) and is durable enough to withstand the abuse in the backcountry.
Carrying a good water filtration system is also a good idea when you’re out in the wild.
Here are some of the options you have when selecting water containers:
Collapsible water containers:
2L Platy Bottle by Platypus
6L Water Tank by Platypus
2.6 Gallon Water Cube by GSI Outdoors
5 Gallon Fold-A-Carrier by Reliance Products
5 Gallon Collapsible Water Container by Coghlan’s
Hard plastic water containers:
5 Gallon 5 Gal. Water Bottle by ORE International
3.5 Gallon Stackable Water Container by WaterBrick
7 Gallon Aqua-Tainer by Reliance Products
5 Gallon Jug with Water Carrier by Coleman
6 Gallon Desert Patrol by Reliance Products
5 Gallon Rhino-Pak by Reliance Products
5 Gallon Water Can by Scepter
5 Gallon SKILCRAFT Water Can by LC Industries
5 Gallon Military Water Can by Scepter
August 26, 2017 | azoffroading.com
Determining which backpacking tent is the best for your adventures can be a difficult decision that is often influenced by your preferences. Where and when will you camp? How will you camp?
The three big items that affect your backpack weight are your pack itself, sleeping bag and your shelter. Investing in a lightweight tent can be one of the most cost-effective ways to reduce total pack weight.
There are many different types of tents out there, and choosing the right one will ensure a better camping experience. A tent, after all, is quite literally your “home away from home”.
Prices of backpacking tents vary, of course, although most high quality backpacking tents will cost between $100 – $500. Usually the more you spend the better the materials used. Materials that provide more strength and weigh less. There are few one person backpacking tents under $100 but around $200 is what you need to expect for high quality tents.
Choosing your backpacking tent involves the following key decision points:
• Capacity: likely number of sleepers
• Seasonality: tent construction relative to expected weather conditions
• Weight: ounces carried vs. dollars spent
• Livability: comfort and convenience based on design and features
Other considerations include ease of tent setup and tent materials. Also, don’t forget the footprint, often sold separately, that goes under your tent floor to protect it from routine wear or an overlooked rock or pine cone.
August 24, 2017 | azoffroading.com
Many Jeep owners don’t even realize there is such thing as a cabin air filter in their vehicle. After all, when you drive topless and doorless, who needs a filter for the cabin. I count myself as one of those jeepers. The topic of cabin air filter did not even cross my mind for the first year of owning my Jeep. I only thought about it after one extremely dusty Jeep run. Some of you who have done the Backdoor to Crown King trail, Box Canyon in Florence or any trail in Arizona for that matter, might recall that before you get to the fun part of the trail you have to drive down a dirt road for a few miles. With several vehicles in your group that gets crazy dusty.
August 10, 2017 | azoffroading.com
After coming back from a run like that, I spent a couple of hours vacuuming and cleaning the interior of my Jeep and accidentally turned the air blower volume dial to maximum and the air direction dial to panel, meaning “in your face” position, without realizing it. After cleaning everything I proceeded to start the Jeep and drive away. It was at that exact moment that a huge cloud of dust came out of the vents full speed and covered both me and the entire interior of the Jeep. Two hours well spent! After catching a breath I thought to myself that there shouldn’t be that much dust in the air system. Isn’t there a filter that prevents it? I had to look up where the cabin air filter is located and after a little investigation I discovered that my Jeep did not come with the filters installed. I did some research online and it turns out it is very common to not have the cabin air filters installed from factory in brand new Jeep Wranglers. I guess you learn something every day.
Whether you’re installing a filter for the first time or replacing a dirty one, here’s a step by step instructions for Jeep JK cabin air filter replacement.
One of the most common upgrades a lot of jeep owners do is a set of new wheels and tires. Once you upgrade your wheels to ones with less backspacing, and you still install your spare tire on your factory tailgate carrier, you’ll notice that your factory rubber bump stops no longer touch your tire and therefore do not protect your tailgate from vibrations caused by the spare tire. This vibration can potentially lead to damage to your tailgate and the hinges.
The solution to this problem is to extend the spare tire bump stops to push against the tire and stop it from vibrating. You might only need an extra 1″ if you’re only getting new wheels and keeping stock tires. Once you upgrade your tires as well, switching to 35’s for example, and still using the factory spare tire mount on the tail gate, you might need to install a wheel spacer or relocation bracket on the carrier to fit the new wheel/tire and clearing the rear bumper. That means that now you might need at least a 2-3″ bump stop extension.
There are two ways you can go about extending your spare tire bump stops. You can purchase aftermarket ones or you can go the DIY way. You have a couple of options for aftermarket bump stops, the most popular are bump stops made by Daystar, and another option is a set by Energy Suspension. The only thing you need to remember is that the Energy Suspension bump stops are 4″ long and the Daystar ones are 4.5″ long.
Going the DIY direction gives you more flexibility in regards to length. I’ve spent way too much time researching this online and from what I can tell, depending on how much you need to extend the bump stops, you could:
1. install a 1-1/2 in. x 1-1/4 in. flexible PVC coupling over the factory bump stop
2. install a radiator hose over the stock bump stops and cut to length
3. insert a 1-1/4 in. garbage disposal air gap rubber hose, cut to length
4. install a hockey puck under you stock bump stop
August 6, 2017 | azoffroading.com
In this post I will attempt to describe a step by step installation of a Synergy Manufacturing Jeep JK front track bar brace. This brace is designed to distribute the increased load the track bar frame side mount encounters on a lifted Jeep or a Jeep with larger size tires. The brace is laser cut and CNC bent from 3/16″ high strength steel. The added track bar bracket thickness prevents the track bar bolt from ovalizing out the stock mount holes, which can lead to vibrations and eventually cause the dreaded death wobble. There are multiple reasons causing the “wobble”, like worn ball joints, loose tie rod ends, worn u-joints, loose adjustment collars on tie rod, drag link or track bar, or worn track bar attachment points on either axle or frame side. Your track bar keeps the axle centered underneath the Jeep when turning and operates under tremendous forces, and the weak stock mounts on both the axle side and the frame side could potentially begin to fail. The holes in the mount might start to become more oval and cause a bit of a play, resulting in shimmies and wobbles. If you use your Jeep as intended and do wheel it, you might encounter a situation where your wheels are blocked by rocks while you try to turn, and your track bar pushes so hard on the mount that it finally brakes it off the frame. It is an extreme scenario, but I have seen it happen. This brace adds strength to the mount and eliminates this weak link in the system.
July 23, 2017 | azoffroading.com
I decided I’m going to expand the range of topics in the blog beyond offroading. I really enjoy wheeling, the whole offroading culture and people I meet on jeep runs who share the same passion. Sometimes however I feel like driving my Jeep some place away from the crowd, far from the city where there’s no cell signal, get out of my vehicle, and enjoy nature more directly.
I’m talking camping, fishing, kayaking, hiking or backpacking. We are really fortunate to have so many beautiful places in Arizona, with forests, lakes and rivers that are worth visiting and truly enjoying. Enjoying responsibly.
Most places are easily accessible by car, but having an offroad-capable vehicle gives us a chance to discover some hidden gems.
We’re lucky because our vehicles can take us to places where others can’t go. We can venture deep into the back country, follow the trail for as long as we want and then set up camp. We can just relax and enjoy the spot, go on a backpacking trip or a day hike.
I’ve always enjoyed camping, backpacking and hiking. The outdoors in general. I recently decided to update my gear, trying to find a balance between good quality ultralight equipment and the price. I have been acquiring new gear over a period of several months and intend to keep doing it into the future. All this gear needs to be tested in the wild, so any chance I get, I head for the back country or at least the desert away from the city.
I am going to post short articles describing the locations I visit and my experience with the gear I selected.
I am going to share my thoughts and opinions on all kinds of camping, backpacking and hiking gear I decided to purchase for myself. Some of the categories of gear will include: shelter, sleep systems, backpacks, cooking systems, water storage, water filtration and more.
I will be sharing descriptions of the campgrounds I had a chance to visit. I will include directions to the site, description of the campsite and amenities, and include some photos of the site.
HIKING AND BACKPACKING
I will be describing trails I hiked, including directions to the trail head, description of the trail and photos. You really do not have to go far from the Valley of the Sun to find a great hiking trail.
July 21, 2017 | azoffroading.com
A lot of work you might want to do on your Jeep, SUV or truck can be done on the ground level and doesn’t require jacking up the vehicle.
If you’re rotating tires, you need to jack up the axles so the wheels/tires are off the ground.
When you’re working on suspension you need to jack up the frame so that the axles can be lowered.
Sometimes however you might need easier access to the under body with more room to maneuver. When you’re changing oil or working on exhaust or skid plates, you could use ramps to drive on top of, to get more room under your vehicle. Using ramps is easier and quicker that jacking up the entire vehicle and setting up four jack stands.
There are several options available if you decide to purchase car ramps, like the RhinoRamps, Scepter Ramp Set, Magnum Ramp System, Black Widow Service Ramps or a Nicky Nice Solid Steel Ramp Set.
Most of them are made out of plastic, some are steel. Weight limits vary and can be anywhere between 6,000-16,000 lbs. These numbers suggest that those ramps should be fine for Jeeps, trucks or SUV’s, but I have seen way too many photos of broken ramps that collapsed under vehicle weight to trust them myself. There is something about the hollow construction of these ramps that makes me uncomfortable. They seem to also slide when you start driving onto them. And there is the cost – they are not cheap, usually you would have to spend around $100-140 for a set of four. They are however light and easy to store.
After considering all the pros and cons, I decided that I would rather make my own ramps and make them out of material that will definitely support the weight of my vehicle – wood. I could custom build them to fit my tires and the height that I prefer. They are much heavier (about 33 lbs each) and larger than the plastic ramps, but they cost less money. You need to make sure you have a place to store them when they’re not being used.
Building your own set of DIY wooden car ramps is a very easy project. If you have all the materials and tools ready, it should take less than a couple hours to complete all four ramps.
July 20, 2017 | azoffroading.com
This is the world’s first factory 72-in wide side-by-side vehicle. With 22-in of suspension travel and advanced FOX Racing components, it stretches the X3 X rs’ abilities far beyond expectations for staggering performance… anywhere.
Features may include:
72-in width for ultimate performance
If there was a rulebook, we’d be accused of cheating: this is the baddest buggy on earth. Punching out the wheels just a bit more gives a staggering performance improvement, not to mention creates the world’s first factory 72-in wide 4-Up side-by-side vehicle. With 22-in of suspension travel and advanced FOX Racing components and a wheelbase 15% longer than the Polaris RZR XP4, it stretches the Maverick X3 MAX X rs’ abilities far beyond your imagination.
154 hp turbocharged and intercooled Rotax® ACE engine
Meet the king of side-by-side engines, the precision-engineered, industry-leading triple-cylinder Rotax ACE engine. Its 154 horsepower at 7,500 RPM and 113 lb-ft of torque at 7,000 RPM give searing speed, no matter the terrain. Tell your friends to look up and hang on.
Advanced airflow dynamics
WIND THAT WORKS
June 4, 2017 | azoffroading.com
With an intake and exhaust tuned to maximise power, efficiency, and throttle response, the Can-Am Maverick X3 MAX will never be starved for performance. Three oversized, out-of-the-way intakes feed the engine and the CVT with clean air and keep temperatures low, with a sport exhaust out back to let the Rotax ACE engine roar.
ExtremeTerrain is excited to give away two brand new 2018 JL Wranglers that have been modified from bumper to bumper in typical XT fashion. One lucky winner will be given the keys to two JL Wranglers, one 4-door model and one 2-door model, that can be shared with a friend, a significant other, or both can be held onto by the winning party.
For months, excitement has been steadily building around the all-new and redesigned 2018 JL Wrangler as more and more details and images have made their way into the press. The latest iteration of the iconic off-roader that can trace its roots back to WWII, the new JL Wrangler is breathing new life into the model line by taking a different approach to the winning recipe. Additional engine options will be offered, including a 3.0L Diesel and 4-Cylinder Turbo, joining the 3.6L Pentastar V6. The aluminum construction of the JL will reduce weight and improve fuel economy, making it even more off-road capable.
With the Toledo, OH Jeep plant retooling the line for JL production and order banks opening up shortly, the winner of this giveaway will have two of the first 2018 Wranglers to roll off of the assembly line, with both already completely outfitted with a range of modifications. The one JL in the giveaway is going to be a Rubicon Unlimited (4 doors), using the faithful 3.6L Pentastar V6 engine. Sitting on 35 Mickey Thompson Tires and a 2.5 Lift, this JLU will be outfitted with a mix of Deegan38 parts including bumpers, fenders, a grille and much more.
Complimenting the Deegan 38 JLU, the winner will also receive a 2018 Rubicon Wrangler (2 doors) that will be packing the all-new VM 3.0L Eco Diesel engine. Matching the ride height and tire setup of the Deegan 38 JLU, this Barricade JL will be outfitted with a mix of exclusive parts that includes armor, bumpers, fenders, a winch and much more.
Both of these JL Wranglers will be off-road prepped and trail ready as soon as the winner takes delivery. The giveaway will run from June 1st through November 24th 2017 when the winner will be announced on ExtremeTerrain.com. Until then, contestants may enter up to once per week by going to extremeterrain.com/win.
June 1, 2017 | azoffroading.com
This post is my attempt to describe the process of replacing a thermostat housing on a 2012 Jeep JK with a 3.6L V6 Pentastar engine. The primary function of a thermostat is to maintain a minimum operating temperature in your car’s engine. When you start your engine cold, antifreeze / coolant mixture is kept within the engine by the thermostat. When the coolant temperature reaches the specified opening point of the thermostat, it opens. Coolant will then flow through the radiator to keep the engine at a temperature close to the rated temperature of the thermostat.
The reason I needed to replace my thermostat was because one morning while driving to work, the “check engine” light came on. When I got home I plugged in my Flashcalto read the code. It was a p0128 code (an indication of a faulty thermostat or ECT – engine coolant temp sensor). After talking to few people I decided that the first thing I’m going to replace is a thermostat and see if that fixes the problem. I got the new thermostat housing and a gallon of coolant at my local dealership ($34.00 and $24.00 respectively).
VERY IMPORTANT: Make sure you get the correct type of coolant for your Jeep if you’re going to be adding it to your system. Read this post before proceeding any further!
December 11, 2016 | azoffroading.com
Remember that if you drive a MY(model year) 2012 or older Jeep Wrangler you need a HOAT (Hybrid Organic Additive Technology) coolant, and if you drive a MY 2013 and newer Jeep Wrangler you need an OAT (Organic Additive Technology) coolant. These two types of coolants DO NOT MIX!
Offroad vehicle recovery is a very important and very broad topic, that every offroading junkie should be familiar with. Every responsible person should be prepared for situations when their offroading adventure is interrupted by a situation where recovery is necessary. The list of recovery gear is long and includes everything from a shovel to a winch. There are many opinions on what are best brands of recovery gear of course. People also have different opinions when it comes to best recovery techniques and minimum requirements for your recovery gear.
One thing is sure, high quality gear is going to be expensive. You have to remember that you’re going to be trusting your safety and sometimes your life to your gear, so do not try to buy and use equipment that is untested and cheap knockoff just to save money. Make smart decisions.
I’m not an expert in this topic and I’ll never claim to be one. I’m just learning by listening to others and slowly gaining more experience. The equipment I’m acquiring for myself might not be what you prefer. I’m only sharing what I believe will work for my vehicle and the type of offroading I do. I own a Jeep JK with some modifications, and wheel in Arizona, so it’s mostly desert. Terrain includes sand, mud and rocks.
I believe the first thing you need to consider when deciding on recovery gear is the type and weight of your vehicle. Your gear is going to differ depending on whether you drive an ATV, side-by-side, Jeep, or a large pickup truck. You have to know how heavy your rig is. Based on some research, I gathered that an average ATV weighs somewhere between 400-800 lbs. An average side-by-side weighs between 1,200-1,600 lbs. A Jeep JK 2DR comes in at about 4,500 lbs stock, but after few mods it’s closer to 5,000 lbs. Jeep JKU 4DR is closer to 5,700 lbs after few mods. An average pickup truck like a Dodge Ram 1500 or Ford F150 weighs somewhere around 5,200 lbs, but the 2500’s or 250’s can weigh more than 7,500 lbs. You have to build you recovery kit based on your needs. Always remember to buy gear with WLL (Working Load Limit) that meets or exceeds your vehicle’s weight!
Like I said, I drive a 2-door JK so my Jeep recovery gear is going to match that 5,000-lb weight (2.5 tons). Some of that gear will be identical no matter what vehicle you drive, but that’ll be just a few items.
November 27, 2016 | azoffroading.com
Any owner of a two-door Jeep Wrangler knows that storage inside of your vehicle is always at a premium (some of you JKU owners might feel the same). And if you’re anything like me and like to be prepared for unexpected situations, you carry a lot of gear in your jeep. Whenever you go wheeling and especially camping you add even more stuff and quickly run out of room inside your Jeep. You have to be pretty creative and use every available square inch of space.
Having a two-door JK myself I’m always looking for smart ways of storing my gear inside my Jeep, that would allow easy access and keep the items secure at the same time.
While surfing the web I came across a subject of MOLLE racks, and specifically tailgate racks. It is such an obvious, great spot for storing gear with incredibly easy access. MOLLE system provides great flexibility and there are so many options when it comes to pouches!
As it turns out there are several products that can be attached to the tailgate. It all depends on what your needs are, and of course what you’re willing to spend on the system.
You can obviously build a simple panel or rack yourself, and customize it the way you wish. I’m all about DIY projects, but after some calculations I decided that in this case I will save myself time and trouble and pick one of the available products out there.
So there’s few options (prices and availability might change):
– Smittybilt G.E.A.R. Tailgate Cover. It’s manufactured out of 600 denier polyester, and requires drilling into your tailgate (around $60.00)
– JK tailgate gear MOLLE panel available on Ebay. It’s made out of steel, you can customize the design, it requires drilling into your tailgate ($75.00).
– Quadratec Tailgate Cargo Shelf. Made out of steel, requires no drilling (around $100.00).
– JK tailgate (fold down) MOLLE panel from Ebay. Made out of steel, customizable design, it folds down to a table, requires drilling into your tailgate ($125.00).
– Springtail Solutions JK Rear Door Folding Tray/MOLLE Panel. It’s made out of steel, folds down to a table, requires no drilling into your tailgate ($195.00).
– Teraflex MP Tailgate Table. The MP table is constructed from lightweight aluminum with stainless steel hardware and is rated for 75 lbs. of evenly distributed load capacity. Requires drilling into your tailgate (around $200.00).
– The MP Table (Multi-Purpose Table) from Vector Offroad. It’s manufactured from aerospace alloy aluminum, it folds down to a table, requires drilling into your tailgate (around $220.00).
After many hours of reading descriptions, reviews and looking at pictures I decided that I wanted four things out of my system:
August 17, 2015 | azoffroading.com
#1 – MOLLE rack
#2 – solid steel construction
#3 – fold-down option that turns the panel into a table
#4 – no drilling into my tailgate
If you own a Wrangler JK you might have experienced something very unsettling while driving on a freeway. When you go over 60 MPH, you can’t help but notice the hood jumping up and down so violently you think at any minute its going to rip the latches off and come flying up at your windshield. Not everyone notices it and some people simply ignore it. I was ignoring it myself for over three years, even though it always seems to scare the crap out of me! I know that the chances that both latches fail and the secondary metal latch in the front fails also at the same time are slim, but it’s just a distraction that I don’t need while I’m driving my “brick on wheels”. It is funny though how my passengers react to it when I point it out to them…
Finally after three years of driving my jeep, the passenger that I’m in a relationship with, asked me to do something about it so I did.
The reason behind this flutter is the fact that the stock hood latches utilize a weak and stretch-prone rubber that allows the hood to lift and flutter at speed. The rubber is very soft! You can actually pull on your locked hood, grabbing it right under the latch and see it lift slightly. That is not a good sign!
The solution to this problem is to make sure your hood closes tighter and doesn’t lift when the gust of wind hits it.
February 2, 2015 | azoffroading.com